VISITING TRABZON, THE BLACK SEA REGION OF TURKEYE PART 2

"Tomorrow morning at 9.45, at the front of gate A of KTU for Uzungöl; the name of firm: Aktivite turizm", the short text I received from Professor Dr. Kaya Ughu. The following message in the afternoon was " I will go with you to gate A. Tomorrow inşallah. So see you at 9.25 o clock in front of the hotel tomorrow morning". My Turkish vocabulary was small but increased daily due to interaction with him and a score of people. He came on foot to the university hotel with a blue navy winter jacket which was presented to him by his son. We walked downhill until we reached the main gate. He bade adieu and I raised my hand and uttered Tesekular to him when the white 10-seater Mercedes Benz van left for Uzungol, which is popularly known as Switzerland of Turkeye. The beautiful lake over there is a postcard picture and is a favourite amongst Middle East tourists. The Black Sea view looked calm with the outcast sky above, I was on the left seat on the van of the first league of the journey and after two tunnels the van went uphill and the views were breathtakingly stunning; small plots of tea plantations, houses and white mosques with tall minarets, nested on the hillslopes. After about three-quarters of the journey, the landscape changed; snow-covered hills were on the right and left and pine trees jutted up from white ground, partly turned white as they were covered by overhanging snow. In the valleys below, a shallow crystal clear river, full of round boulders, snaked downward against a white landscape and leafless trees. On the sky a flock of birds, flying low, making a circle. This northern district could be described as the Turkish Alp or Switzerland of Turkey. Occasionally, I saw wooden chalets raised on stilts and a few under refurbishment. The amazingly beautiful views could not be explained by words and no picture could show the real beauty of the said landscape unlike of what you capture with your very own eyes. Travellers say "the best part of travelling is not only a destination but also the journey.

My journey to Uzungol was not a non-stop one, our van halted at several places where passengers could take refreshments and nice pictures.  After a short ride, the van stopped at YesiLyali Tas Firin, a famous bakery by the Black Sea; not too far from the city. In front of the shop a huge stack of neatly arranged firewood and from the glass window I saw huge round brown breads neatly arranged on the shelves. Inside, a variety of Turkish delights and breads. Six slides of fresh sweet baklava fresh from the wooden oven, and the aroma of freshly baked bread filled the air. Near the stair, was an opened wood-fired oven with intense heat and on the table close by, laying a long wood paddle, perhaps 8 to 10 feet; as long as a pole we used to pluck low hanging ripe in our place. Upstairs I saw baklava on several big steel containers and a grown beard young male staff, looked serious, he wore a white apron, arranging them neatly on a table. Looking at them, creating an irresistible temptation, I wanted to try all of them, but I knew I could only bite what I could chew. Sweet Turkish baklava is a favourite for many, including myself, who could not help to taste and here they were freshly baked. I went downstairs and queued, waiting for my turn to be served and behind the counter two young female workers; one in charge of the payment and another one with blue eyes put the items bought by customers into plastic bags. I chose a small and medium size of simit or ring dough sprinkled with sesame and a cup of cay; all cost me less than 20 Turkish lira, approximately RM6. While waiting for our van to continue the journey, I went outside the shop, enjoying hot tea in the winter and my eyes looked at the black sea with white ice-capped mountains in the background. I only ate one small simit and I planned to eat the others on my journey to Uzungol. Since it was winter, my tummy was always hungry and to eat all of them would not be a problem. I hope all the food can go down well on my throat. 

We know that Turks love tea locally called cay, but I did not know that Turkeye is self-sufficient and produces tea for its consumption. My previous visit many years ago was in Ankara, where I participated in a conference organized by Cankaya University. I stayed three days and two nights in the said city, I explored the city on foot and by cabs but didn’t set foot outside the cities. On my way back to Malaysia, I visited Istanbul and stayed in a hotel for a few days; discovering a few attractive places including Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Spice Market. What we enjoyed most was drinking piping hot tea and coffee and sightseeing. Turks serve cay in a small cup and refill it once it is empty. Apart from historical buildings, what stood out, was when I was visiting the city I came across stray cats and dogs outside the compounds of those imposing buildings. Unlike stray cats and dogs in Malaysia which are usually dirty and skinny, here, the cats and dogs were clean and fat; unfitted as the ones in our place. In Istanbul, stray dogs and cats are owned by local authorities. They are everywhere, lying on the patio, sleeping on the grass, neither they feel threatened by passersby nor do they threaten them. They have learned to live or to co-exist with humans. Later the same was also observed in KTU.

The white van stopped at a place where all passengers drank tea served by a middle-aged Turkish man. He distributed each of us a small glass of tea and when we asked at the same time used the sign language of money, nonchalantly he said "no money…ikram" we thankful him in Turkish for the service. In the centre was a huge copper tea container that looked very impressive. While sitting on a low seat and sipping hot tea to warm our bodies in the cold winter, I saw a tea plantation on the hillslope across the road. Soon, a big group of Arab families with a chartered van came and the guy with his woman helper served them. After drinking they left. Later our woman tourist guide who sat in front of the wooden fire with the driver of the van had the last smoke of her cigarette, called and gathered us and then led us to the back of the building where we were briefed about tea production at the tea factory by a tall and lanky man who wore red winter jacket, named Sulaiman. The briefing of course in the Turkish language, and although I did not understand, overall I could easily guess what he said. It was a big tea factory with a few big drums and a conveyor belt. He showed us dried and ground tea leaves. Later we went to the tea shop on the left of the factory's gate, there he told us tea names and the quality of the tea bags and containers which were neatly displayed and arranged on the shelves. While all the passengers visited the tea shop, only I bought a small rectangular black container, a 200 gram of Siyah Cay produced by DEMCAY, the company was established in 1984. The one I bought was the cheapest, a fragrant flavour tea, where I brought it home after I had done my visit at KTU. Surprisingly, it was the best tea we ever had, my wife and I enjoyed it so much, that I regretted choosing the smallest one, if I knew, I would buy the biggest container or a few of the ones I chose. My journey to Uzungol unearthed information of the Turkish tea plantation and its production. Actually, this region together with Rize is the largest producers of Tea in Turkeye. This is due to its hilly topography and suitable weather for tea growing. Soon we embarked on our journey. I could help to arrive at Uzungol, but that stop not the last one. 

Uzungol which is approximately 2 hours’ drive from Trabzon is amazingly beautiful. In whatever time you visit; spring, summer, autumn and winter; the mountains are covered with thick pine trees, the valley, the oval-shaped lake tucks in the middle, and the outstanding white mosque with a single pencil minaret by the water, all blended into one postcard of breath-taking picture which pleasing to your very eyes. When we arrived at noon, the ground was blanketed with snow while some objects like fences, chairs, and others were partly submerged with thick snow. The red roofs turned white and leafless trees along the walking path jutted up from the white ground. Most of the lake was frozen and you could even walk on it. Ducks enjoyed swimming in the unfrozen part of the lake. Suffice it to say, the whiteness of the place enveloping us was indescribable. The place seemed above the white clouds. Kids enjoyed playing with snow, making snowballs and throwing at one another, we saw a boy running and then throwing himself on white ground. For kids neither warm nor cold prevent them from playing. On the other corner, a group of them was in the final stage of making a snowman. Their parents nearby snapped photos against the background of the lake, overlooking the mountains and the mosque. Honeymooners mostly from Arabic countries come her for their honeymoon, it is the perfect destination. It was a worthwhile visit that gave you an everlasting memory.

Turkish always do and take things to the next level. When they build something it is not only functionality per se but also aesthetical aspect of it. On our trip back from Uzungol we stopped at Kiremitli Kopru bridge for a little while. It is an old wooden curved-cover bridge, crossing a shallow river which is full of gravel and a little bit upstream is a small dam with turquoise water that creates a rapid when water overflows down the river. Its terracotta roof is as old as the bridge. As for layman observer what is unique and amazing about the old bridge is it was built without any pillar to support it. It is sufficing to say the ones who first designed and built it had the aesthetical purpose on their minds. After all, with pillar or column planted in the middle of the river would prevent views of the river. The bridge is well-maintained and can withstand the test of time. After a few snaps of photos, the woman guide called us to continue our journey to Trabzon. Downhill we went and the image of the wooden bridge bit by bit disappeared from my sight.

The sunset over the Black Sea seacoast near Trabzon was gorgeous. Rosy twilight gently on the horizon captivated our eyes, soon all will be disappearing when the night comes. Birds perched on branches of trees silhouetted against the dimming sky. Some of them had built their nests in coat-stands' branches, how many eggs they laid we did not know but each was ready to go to bed early to prepare for tomorrow morning to catch fish from the ocean. A lone fisherman on a small boat, either he came back from afternoon fishing or to go for overnight fishing we didn't know. At a stretch of the road, trees had been planted and judging from the work there it will be turned into a park and recreation place. On Friday afternoon, while walking on a field after lunch at a cafe with a stunning view of the Black Sea, I asked Prof. Kaya why the ocean before us was named so, honestly he said he didn't know the answer but his friend, the faculty member, told us the name came after black clouds from the sea coming to the shore. That is why is called the Black Sea, but the colour of the water of the ocean is the same in our place. We heard the call for magrib prayer when we arrived at the main gate of KTU. Sharing bits and bobs about Uzungol and its journey, the worthwhile visit over the weekend. Hopefully, can visit during spring or summer time. 

We would surely fail to see the forest for the tree if the narratives only related to a day trip to Uzungol, daily life at KUT as well as foods that we ate unless we provide a glimpse of information about Trabzon in general. It’s one of the provinces in Turkey situated by the Black Sea. Historically, this place was under different influences: Greek, Ottoman, Russia. It was an important port by the said sea and also hosted caravanserai that brought goods from Asia Minor including Iran to the Mediterranean. With its roughly 0.8 million populations, more than 25% of its population stays in Trabzon City, the biggest in the eastern Black Sea region. They are strong supporters of Trabzon football club which is played well for the country's league. Apart from Uzungol, other popular tourist destinations include Sumela Monastery, Hagia Sophia as well as Atatürk Pavilion. In the city, Meydan is the main attraction where you can enjoy time with families and friends shopping till you drop off as well as enjoy eating Turkish foods and drinking cay. It's situated just a short drive from KTU and many vans popularly known as auto bus dolmus available now and then to ferry passengers with less than 3 Lira or 1RM per ride.

A visit to Turkey will not be complete if you do not eat kebab as it is synonymous with the country. In common, three popular types of kebab; shish or sis kebab, Adana kebab and iskender kebab. The one that I ate at Forum shopping mall which was about 5 to 10 minutes walking distance from the campus was iskender kebab. The two food shops that sell this famous Kebab are always packed with customers from all walks of life. I noticed many came with their families and after shopping and browsing many shops they enjoyed their favourite kebab. I waited for sometimes, lastly lucky enough to a small table near the beverage section. After waiting for a short while, an attendant brought a white plate of iskender kebab on the table. Unlike shish kebab, meat of iskander kebab consists of thin slices of meat, topped with white and brown gravy and small rectangular pieces of bread hidden below. It is no exaggeration to say it is the most delicious kebab I have had so far. Apart from kebab, doner and pide are two popular Turkish foods you can try when you come to visit Turkey.

Turkeye is also famous for Baklava. This lemon honey sweetens crispy poli dough enriched with walnut and pistachio is a perfectly mouth-watering dessert, and without a doubt is a favourite by many. I had the best Baklava in Trabzon with Prof. Kaya. When we entered the famous Ustad Baklava, the elegant food cafe in Meydan, tucked in the centre of Trabzon's city, the fresh smell of baklava wafted in the air. A score of customers enjoyed chatting over Turkish tea and baklava and in the kitchen staff busied working, stacks of stainless steel containers full of baklava ready for eager customers. We were served with cay and a few pieces of baklava. Prof Ughu Kaya ate one and left the rest for us to savour. Baklava is best eaten with sugar-free hot tea, where its honey-sweet taste perfectly blended in your mouth and go down very well on your throat. The best combination. Behind the polished wooden counter, the middle-aged guy, wearing a black vest and dark trousers carefully put baklava on a paper box ordered by customers. This shop looked elegant with spotless clean glass windows where you could see pedestrians walking on a cobbled street, either alone or with friends and family members. If you come here there are many shops and cafes that are famous for baklava, the highest price of this dessert can fetch 220 Turkish Lira per kilo, roughly equivalent RM66. The price of what we got here was much cheaper and we also got free cay and some pieces of baklava for free. Evyallah.

Carrying two full bags of Baklava we trampled on cobbled streets avoiding vehicles and all varieties of shops there; ranging from shoes, clothes, to hand phones. People from all walks of life thronged here. It was full of life and energy. While walking and talking we glanced through the windows of shops on the left and the right, seeing breath-taking Uzungol pictures overhanging on the walls. We walked past the square full of trees where some were sitting on low benches waiting for someone or just wanted to kill their time or needed to catch a breath. We saw an old building nearby, Prof Kaya said "not too old, consider new for us". Judging when the history of this city started in twelve centuries, relatively, things around 100 to 200 years are not considered old. We visited a few shops there and Prof. Kaya paid a visit to his friend who owned a computer shop and performed asar prayer. 

Turks are skilful and entrepreneurial. One case in point is how they perfected their skills on how to make knives and sell them for a good living either for house consumption or gifts or souvenirs for tourists. During our short sojourn here, I told Prof. Kaya that I wanted to a knife as my friend asked me to get one from Turkeye. We visited a knife in the city. A variety of knives were overhanging on the walls and displays. They came with various prices, sizes, shapes, qualities and functions. Depending on how much money you prefer to spend as well the purpose of buying. I believe that knife collectors; would surely jump out of their skins when they came here. Looking at them with sharp glowing and shining blades with beautifully crafted polished wooden handles you would easily part with money in your purses. The workmanship of Turks in making knives is second to none. Unlike in our place where locally made knives are usually sold in wet markets, located in a secluded areas and they are displayed on tables or laying of floors with axes, swords as well as machetes, here there is a dedicated shop for it. This is a healthy ecosystem for this kind of product where all players in this industry can earn a living. Strong support from customers through purchasing local knives will ensure this industry thrives and sustains. When you know the real value of a knife you will pay the right price for it and at the same time support each and every value chain of the said industry. 

The early morning call for prayer from the mosque nestled on the hillslope near the campus broke through my sleep when it was still dark. At about quarter to 8 in the morning I went to the lobby of the university's hotel with my pack on my back, I the just bought National Geographic's luggage trolley beg and the bag of baklava in my hand as souvenir to bring home. The payment to the hotel was done on the previous day, only the key was handed to the receptionist, the same guy to who I paid my bill, who said no receipt when I asked him. Soon the taxi came and we set off to the airport. I had an excellent breakfast of cay and a bowl of sweet milk with ground nuts in a pleasant cafe on the upper floor after luggage check-in, overlooking the tarmac and runaway where planes touched down, took off and passengers embarked and disembarked. It is not an exaggeration to say Trabzon's airport is the most scenic airport I ever see; situated by the Black Sea and a white snow-capped range of mountains looming large in the distance. While having the meal I contemplated the natural hospitality of my host in particular and Turks in general which were second to none. Every time we had a meal, breakfast, lunch as well dinner they would not allow me to pay. When first I arrived at this very airport in the cool morning I felt alien but after I spent two-week time I had a marvellous stay and experience here -knowing some friends and making acquaintances and visiting a few places including touristy Uzungol. Looking forward to returning in the near future. InsyaAllah.