Weh Island is also known as Sabang Island, located at the north of of Aceh, Sumatra, Indonesia. The said island is a popular touristy Island amongst Acehnese people. Lately, it attracts more and more domestic tourists as its breathtaking views as well its Kilometer 0 attraction. In his travel writing story, the author narrates and shares him recent visit to the island.
Weh Island is small island, 122 square kilometres, four time smaller than Langkawi Island. In total its population approximately 50,000, is amongst the smallest population in Indonesia. This island is also known as Sabang Island, after the city situated on the northeast end of the island. The largest of population of this island is Acehnese and the remaining are Minangkabau, Javanese, Batak and a small population of Chinese who stay and ran businesses in the town of Sabang. We had a sumptuous lunch at Makan Raya restaurant. The way meal was served here like Padang ’ s restaurant where all sort of meals were arranged on the table and the price would only be based on the meals that we consumed. We ate grilled fish, yellow fin tuna, fried barramundi, squid and Marlin fish. We learned that here squid is called as Cumi , not as Sotong as we know in Malaysia. The funny part happened at the end when we called the guy owner to count and to pay for the meal. Counting with his big black calculator, he said 2.9 millions, roughly RM 1,000. What a surprise! Realising we were somewhat shocked by the figure, smiling, nonchalantly, he said discounted 90%, only 297,000 Rupiah. Jokingly, he said Bapak Abdullah would angry at him if he charged expensive price for the meal.
We arrived at the Masjid Baitul Muna when the call for the Friday Prayer from the tall and slender minaret echoed in the air. Taking an obligatory ablution, shoes off, we went inside the mosque. Unlike Malaysia, here the sermon was delivered without reading from a text, the subject and words uttered by the young Khatiq was according to his heart. The sermon was delivered in three languages; Arabic, Malay and local dialect. One privilege for Muslims who travel is to shorten and combine prayers, we prayed Asar once we finished the Friday ’ prayer.
Afterwards, we followed uphill and downhill road led to the kilometre 0 Indonesia Sabang, a symbolic site that marks the starting point of the country. A row of wooden sheds selling various clothes, souvenirs and other things for visitors, including snacks and drinks. When we arrived not many tourists. When clothes vendors pursued us to look at their items, politely we refused with thanks and said we could visit their stalls later after we had enough time at the monument and sightseeing. The monument is situated on edge of the hill, facing an opened and calm sea of the Indian Ocean. The view was breath-taking. We saw the vast ocean behind dense tropical trees, we were enveloped by the beauty of the nature. I walked on the wooden stage to have different views of the sea, taking photos of the nature as memories to bring home. I also walked on the closed road for vehicles, observing different trees as well as big stones under the trees. I did not recognise what types of stones there, but I knew they were igneous types of rocks. Generally, there are two types of igneous rocks: extrusive and intrusive igneous rocks. If granite rock that belongs to the latter group which I could easily discern. Later my friends called for photographs in front of the monument as the evidence that we had reached the place, the northern and westernmost of Indonesia. As for Indonesian people as well as other travellers, if they wanted to travel throughout the country which has more than 17,000 islands, this place is considered as the starting point and the end is Merauke, in the South Papua Province which is the easternmost of the country. I did not have any intention to get any souvenir there. One stall sells a certificate as to show ones already arrived at the point 0, first I thought to get one for me, but I changed my mind. I already have Aceh fridge magnets at home when I first visited it many years ago. While waiting my friends doing shopping I drank jeruk ice which costed us 15 rupiahs for each cup. A gang of monkeys, with vicious looks approached us behind a large tree, they ran away when we drove them off. The lady vendor that sold the drink told me she originally from Banda Aceh, she moved to Sabang when she married. An Indonesian song from one of the stalls broken the silence. When only a few tourists around, the vendors of a row of clothes shops with overhanging clothes, shots, t shirt, blouses, gowns, fridge magnets could hardly make a sale. My friends bought clothes for their kids at one of the shops. When we just about to leave the place a young European couple arrived with a motorcycle.
People said this place is one of the best sides to watch sun set in Weh island because it situated on the top of the hill and directly faces to the west of the open sea with no interruption, sadly, we needed to check in at the hotel, we surely missed this panoramic view of sunset from the top of the hill. Perhaps, we could have a glimpse of it near our resort. We also planned to visit Rubia Island, it is a favourite place for snorkelling and scuba diving enthusiasts but we abandoned our plan as we were so tired. We asked Abdullah to drive us to the town and after almost half hour we arrived at the Hotel Maliq. The said hotel is relatively new, facing the Indian Ocean. This accommodation was co-owned and run by Universitas Syiah Kuala and his sister. After check in I went to my room, lying on the bed and browsing on hand phone after I took a bath. And when it just about sunset I went to the viewing deck, trying to have a glimpse of the sunset by the sea. The sea breeze blew, gently slapped our faces. But the setting sun was hidden behind hill and the heavy clouds prevented its rays from penetrating them, we were unlucky. While the sea quite calm, swimming was not possible as the beach area was rocky, dotted with corals. We watched a few local folks fishing near the shore.
As for dinner, we went to kedai MIE Sedap jln perdagangan, 48, Sabang. First Abdullah wanted us to eat at Acirasa coffee, but the shop was filled to the brims with customers. It was noisy with shouting and cheering. Actually, they were watching their football national team, playing against Japan in the world cup qualifying which was life telecast on television. When nobody came to take an order after we were at the table, we left to Mie Sedap , which just next to it. According to Abdullah, this shop is famous for noodle where the secret recipe has been passed from one generation to the next since the Dutch ’ s Colonisation. He pointed to the guy who was responsible for the preparation of the noodles. However, he yet married so we wonder who is going to inherit and looking after the business when he is old enough at the ripe age and no longer can manage the business. When my friend went to the kitchen we found the guy is Chinese Muslim named Muhamad and his other name is Thomas. We ordered fried noodle and fried noodle with gravy. Soon the former arrived on our table followed by the later. Mie Sedap can be literally translated as delicious noodle, as its name attract foodies and travellers a visit to Sabang would not be complete without savouring noodles here. On plates of full of noodles, topped with small slices of brown meats soon arrived on our table, were ready to be eaten. The slice of meats that I ate taste different with other meats, so tender and blended well with noodles, later I found they were made of fish meat. It came as a no surprise to me as Weh Island is rich with fish so they are more preferable than beef and mutton. Customers from all walks of life enjoyed noodles here. The next table, two female customers, a Malay and a Chinese, were chatting over plates of noodles, and just the next table where we had our meal, a young couple with their kids were enjoying their meals - sharing a slice of live of customers at this food shop.
Afterwards/Subsequently, we went to the Gopal coffee at the nearby also facing the Hindi sea, locally known as Hindi Samudera. I asked for kopi Sanger, less sugar, on the opposite bapak Abdullah preference was sweet Sanger. Currently, Kopi Sanger is one of the most popular coffee in Aceh. Its name is nothing to do with a place where coffee is growing around Aceh but more on philosophical term: Sanger is an abbreviation of Indonesian words “ sama sama mengeri or saling mengerti”. The story goes like this: In Aceh, two prominent universities; Universitas Syiah Kuala (USK) and Universitas Ar-Raniry, where most students sought a cheap and good quality coffee. A well-known coffee house Solong brewed a thick black coffee and added a very small amount of sugar and condensed milk which turned the blacked coffee to brown. By so doing ordinary customers managed to taste milked coffee without removing the character of Robusta which satisfied middle-class people with a cheaper price. He told us, this the way people in Sabang spending the night. Actually, the name Sabang comes from Indonesian words: Santai Banget . Commensurate with its name, we were now relaxing, enjoying coffee by beaches. The sound of the waves lapping the beach was like lullaby for your ears. White foams created when the waves pounding the shore. We sat under the pine tree, looking at the dark sea, seeing a flick of light coming from a fisherman boat in a distance, according to Abdullah the boat was catching squids. When he had no job as a driver he would go to the sea to catch fish, squids and prawns. Lapping of waves reminding me of my yesteryears many years ago in Kelantan, one day, the day was Friday but the month I forgot, I was positive about it, it was in 1995, where I was standing on the shore at Pantai Kemayang, Kemasin in Bachok, looking forlornly at the South Chinese Sea, thinking of my fate, my future as I longingly wanted to pursue my study overseas but I yet to see any hope. Actually, I applied a few scholarships but every time I did they turned out to be the same- unsuccessful. I did not lost hope, praying to Allah, the most merciful and the most compassionate. The best planner. Meanwhile, I equipped myself with English competency, night and day, learning to write as well as to increase my vocabularies. The small yellow colour Malay and English dictionary was always on my pocket everywhere I went. In addition, I only listened to English radio station. I read New Straits Times every single day. I was adamant to improve my writing. The rest was the history.
The two days and one-night visit was of course short but it left indelible impression about this touristy island. While local tourists are the overwhelmingly the majority, with better promotions, hopefully, it can attract more international tourists including Malaysians. Part of me wanted to stay longer in this jewel island, a slice of paradise of Aceh ’ s natural attractions, but I needed to leave very soon as tomorrow we would need to catch an early ferry to Banda Aceh.
