THE TRAIN RIDE TO DABONG

The morning had just broken, and the sun rose, casting its golden-red light on the Wakaf Baru Train Station, when the metallic, blue-lace local commuter train from Tumpat to Gua Musang arrived. Prior to its arrival, all passengers were reminded by a recorded message from the loudspeaker to stand behind the yellow line on the platform as a safety measure. A throng of people, mainly came together with families, some brought food and rucksacks on their shoulders, a few were holding their children's hands, went on board, looking for the allocated seats according to their tickets that they bought online or offline. A train ride to Dabong started as a result of the restriction of inter-state travel due to COVID-19 in 2021. Desperate to travel, many found Dabong, a small town located in the hinterland of Kelantan, about 150 km from Kota Bharu offers a few attractive spots, including limestone hills, caves, as well as a waterfall for visitors to enjoy and to spend quality time with families and friends. The cheap or affordable price of the train ticket for the journey, at RM5 per trip, makes it a perfect destination. Thanks to local influencers on social media like TikTok, who shared and promoted their train ride to Dabong. These factors that provided an irresistible package have boosted number of passengers. 

Like us, most of the passengers on board were on their day trip to Dabong, judging from its popularity as a new touristy destination in Kelantan, the train that we rode is dubbed as "Train to Dabong" a local version of the Korean "Train to Busan" but it is nothing to do with a zombie virus on the train, it is an enjoyable train ride. Soon after leaving Wakaf Baru Station, we opened a medium-sized box of tuna sandwiches and distributed them amongst families. At the end of the cabin was a food and drink section manned by a thin-mouthed face and a sweet-looking young man; we asked for teh tarik, but to our dismay, he said he ran out of tea, so we ended up with milo with sweetened condensed milk to wash down our sandwiches. Other passengers had their own food, including nasi berlauk, a favourite morning breakfast for many Kelantanese. The air inside the train was filled with the smell of rice, curry and fish. With the full tummies, the journey would be more relaxed, comfortable and enjoyable. At the same time, a tall train crew in white uniforms inspected our tickets; it was his job routine, and his friendly demeanor made passengers feel happy, adding holiday pleasure for us. Kudos to KTM and its staff, the diesel train is new and with air conditioning, passengers felt comfortable. Its service can raise awareness, interest and make a positive impact on nature tourism in the hinterland of Kelantan. The train to Dabong was a balmy day for us and our families. As for myself, a train with mesmerising views throughout the journey was what I was waiting for after my last train ride in Kelantan almost 3 decades ago.

Soon after the train left the station, huge rice fields greeted and enveloped us. On the moving train, we saw a flock of grey herons looking for early prey in shallow water, and the reflection of the image of the morning sun dancing on the surface of the water. What a pleasurable excitement of a balmy morning and eager anticipation of our destination would bring. And for us, there was no pleasure other than travelling with the train; it was fun, enriching activities, as well as experiencing new things and this is especially true with families.

Soon the views changed, the panorama of the vast rice fields replaced by the intermixing of villages, small-scale rubber plantations, bushes and fruit orchards along the railway track from Pasir Mas to Tanah Merah. The morning light slowly began to turn brighter and on the bright morning sun, life began to stir. Our eyes captured the kaleidoscope of changing landscape through the window of the moving train, reflecting the changing of various colours and phases of our life; our journey in this mortal world that keeps on changing, rotating and moving until we reach our last station - the end of the destination. Most of the rice fields before our eyes were filled with rainwater, indicating a new planting season just about to begin. In those days, water buffaloes worked tirelessly on these fields, ploughing the land with wooden yokes on the upper part of their bodies, along with their owners who were trailing behind. Nowadays, tractors, the so-called mechanised buffaloes have replaced these poor beasts, so they are considered as unemployed and unproductive in our economic terms. The landscape before our eyes will magically change accordingly to the planting season: with foot shoots of rice fields, it looks like a huge green carpet and then be replaced by the golden colour view when the paddy bears ripe stalks, where little sparrows with full bellies happily flying because of the abundance of food. As for rice planters, they happily reap what they sow. Afterwards, the fields turn to stubbly brown with cracked soil where kids happily play with kites in the evening when the wind condition allows them to do so.

You will notice the changes in the landscapes and views during the train ride. While the views of the stretch of the railway line from Wakaf Bharu and Pasir Mas were largely rice fields as this area is situated in the floodplain of Kelantan, from Pasir Mas to Tanah Merah, rice fields are replaced by rubber trees and fruit orchards. Looking at the small size of the rubber plots and their locations near villages, we believed they are owned by smallholders. Amongst various orchard tree; durian trees are usually the tallest and stand out in our view from a distance. And it is common for Kelantanese to plant durian, the king of the fruit. This area is not suitable for rice crops because it is situated in a relatively higher elevation where water is not usually available for tilling lands and rice planting. By observing the views through the windows, you could easily say Kelantan is still an agrarian state. A further observation found that many houses are made of bricks, replacing wooden houses which were popular before the 1980s when abundant supply of wood. Houses here have a wider compound and are built not too close to one another, showing this area is not densely populated. At one of the coffee shops, old men, wore white skull caps, clad in sarongs, sat around tables, discussing local matters, including politics, a plume of white smoke of cigarettes spiraling skyward. Unlike other states in Malaysia, here in Kelantan, coffee shops open in the very early morning, just after the morning prayer. And in the laidback society, people have ample time to chat and mingle with friends and acquaintances. The train passed several stations, namely Tok Uban and Bukit Panau without stopping, and when we were approaching Tanah Merah town, it reduced the speed and moved parallel with the main road with less traffic where rows of shop houses were still shuttered. We had a morning view of the sprawling city. We passed the over bridge and the train arrived at Tanah Merah Station by eight o'clock. The said station is relatively bigger than Wakaf Bharu station, the train stopped slightly longer, a score of passengers went onboard, their destination was obvious - Dabong.

After a halt at the Tanah Merah Station, the train was crossing the Kelantan River by the Guillemard Bridge, named after the British Governor of the Straits Settlements - Sir Laurence Guillemard, the second oldest railway bridge in Malaysia after the Victoria Bridge in Perak. It was first constructed in the 1920s and was reconstructed again after the damage during the 2nd World War. Looking down the river, my mind flooded with the old memories in the 1970s and 1980s when we used to cross the river via the very bridge with our father's car to and fro between Machang and Tanah Merah. Oftentimes, we needed to wait either at Kg. Paloh Rawa or Kg. Kusial for the passing train before we and other car users were allowed to drive on this steel bridge to cross the river. If the wait was longer, some drivers and passengers had a drink and smoked at the nearby coffee shops. As for kids, we were fascinated by the substantial black steel bridge and remembered the clattering, the strange noisy sounds created by our car's tyres moving on the wooden platform which was similar to the beat of our hearts in each and every crossing. And below the bridge, we saw the mighty Kelantan river and its green fertile basin where farmers planted various crops and cows happily grazing, seemingly oblivious to what was happening around them. Fast forward, we were on the train, plying the same bridge and experienced the same views except for the noisy sound. Nowadays, this bridge is solely used by trains; cars are no longer allowed to use it.

The clock on our hand hit ten past nine in the morning when the train arrived at the Kuala Krai train station, where wild grasses grew on the other tracks and on the open grounds. There was a yellow old locomotive, motionless on the track. We didn't know if it was still in operation or not, but it seemed abandoned in our eyes, judging from its rusty condition. The train is a familiar mode of transportation for people around Kuala Krai town and far-flung villagers, where the train is the most available option. In its heyday, this station was busy with passengers from all walks of life and ages. Food vendors also added the colour of the station, hawking their food to passengers on board. Now it has lost its luster, when many prefer to use cars, buses and planes to travel to Kuala Lumpur. Hopefully, due to the popularity of Train to Dabong will rekindle Kuala Krai station and Kuala Krai town's glory. If you remember, in those days, 'Tangga Bradley' or Krai' stair, which was built in 1927 was used to measure the Kelantan river level during floods, and for us in Kota Bharu we were in full alert when we heard on the local radio that water in the Kelantan River already surpassed a certain level. Furthermore, the Kelantan river begins here in Kuala Krai when the two tributaries - River Galas and River Lebir meet. The Kuala Krai mini zoo here attracts local visitors. We went there many years ago, hoping to see a more friendly zoo as well as education for kids and parents about our fauna conservation. 

When the coming train passed the station, the train resumed its journey. We saw many houses and a railway barrack. The presence of the Hindu temple near the station shows there is a sizeable Indian community in this area. With better promotion of its attractions and some investments from the local authority, this place can attract local visitors.

Only a score of passengers were at the elevated platform; it seemed the station was deserted and to our surprise, the train halted for a few minutes and then continued its journey. However, it stopped immediately after the station and moved backward. Since the East Coast railway line uses a single track, only one train is permitted to use the rail at one time. Continuing our trip, we were mesmerised and captivated by the greenery along the railway track. Occasionally, when the train crossed short bridges, we saw crystal clear shallow rivers. Houses that dotted along the track from Wakaf Bharu to Kuala Krai were gradually disappearing and being replaced by bushes, rubber plantations and secondary forests, including bamboo. With the comfort of the air conditioner, we felt comfortable, relaxed and enjoyed our ride. After crossing a long bridge over Lebir River we arrived at the Manik Urai Station. If we take the 1920s, the construction of the East Coast railway line, this station has been almost 100 years in existence and has witnessed historical events in Kelantan. As for Manik Urai train was the only mode of transportation in those days, so you could easily imagine the importance of it. Fast forward, the new platform of this station was elevated after the massive flood that struck in 2014 inundated this station and the vicinity area. A few passengers got off the train, and a few got on board. We wished to lounge at the nearby coffee shop, killing time there, observing how life goes by and chatting with old folks over coffee. The first time we visited this station and the small town of Manik Urai was in 1990, shortly after the general election. It was a week of fieldwork for us as students from the Department of Geography, University of Malaya. We conducted the survey pertaining to the social economy of several communities in South Kelantan, including a comparative study of communities in the old and new settlements of Manik Urai. Manik Urai town in those days was more or less like a 'cowboy town' where huge amounts of timber, cow dung littered the town, old wooden shacks, and a small police station. Since the survey just after the general election, local communities thought we were representatives from the federal government and they talked more about politics rather than answering our questions. The Manik Urai railway station is now uplifted with a new building, tiles and a brick pathway. Rows of ornamental plants also beautified the said station. Manik Urai has more to offer to tourists, but it is entirely untapped. As for nature lovers and adventurers, exploring and trekking streams around this area is one of many activities. Here is a gateway from the hassle and bustle of city life.

The last stretch of our train ride began from Manik Urai, passed Bukit Abu and ended at the Dabong railway Station. Apart from the greenery and trees vista, experiencing the train ride through a series of tunnels and viewing the river that flows parallel with the track captivated us. Then the train steadily ascended and entered the first tunnel and followed by one tunnel after another; we counted eight of them altogether. Although we could not see their walls and roofs because of the pitch black when we were inside the tunnels, we saw their arches and bricks at the entrances. We were impressed and awed by their constructions, considering their age of about 100 years, they are still intact and still in operation. British Engineers who designed and built these tunnels that stand against the test of time should be proud of them, leaving their legacies in our country. On one occasion, when we went off one of the tunnels, we saw the river and on its bank a herd of cows happily roaming and grazing, they looked healthy and no owners to be seen nearby. Bukit Abu is a small station, hardly any passengers get on and off here when the train comes to a halt. This remote station is situated in the middle of nowhere. I observed rubber plantations on the right and the left of the windows. No change since our last train ride almost 3 decades ago but this time I saw no vendors on the platform used to be, no more selling traditional kueh or Malay cakes, fruits, boiled chicken eggs and drinks. If you stay here, I believe your only mode of transportation to other towns is via train and if you miss it, it takes you many hours to catch another train. So departure and arrival of a train will be part and parcel of those who live in this remote place. Perhaps there is a road from Dabong to Bukit Abu, but we have yet to drive there. Dabong was the last station.

Roughly, it took us 3 hours to reach Dabong railway station. The said station perches on the left bank of Sungai Galas. Once the train stopped, most of the passengers disembarked, leaving a handful to continue their journey up to Gua Musang. Dabong Station is a small train station that consists of a red-roofed main building on the right elevated platform, where the office and ticket counter are situated. At the end of the platform is a toilet. A railway canteen serves food and drinks also available for customers. Once the train left the platform, we crossed the railway tracks to find cars to ferry us to the favourite tourist spots in the area. Since there was no fixed price for the service, we needed to haggle with the drivers to get the best price. We were lucky to get a 4×4 and the price was reasonable. 

The popularity of Train to Dabong attracted many to experience a train ride together with visits to touristy places here are welcome and fully embraced. Undoubtedly, tourism has brought an economic boom to this remote place. Thanks to the silver lining of COVID-19, when Kelantanese were barred from traveling outside the state, Dabong was the option. Located about 90 km from Kota Bharu, the availability of trains, unspoiled and a few attractive places to visit made this place a perfect choice. Of course you can drive from Kota Bharu to Dabong, but the train ride is more enjoyable, relaxing and you can bring the whole family with you. Kids are more than happy to have a ride. With all these, Dabong offers the right tourism package. Up until now, Train to Dabong has been popular not only amongst Kelantanese to spend quality time with families but also among people from other states. During school holidays, you found families as far as Johor Bahru rode the trains to Dabong to enjoy the ride, including breathtaking views along the journey as well as visiting places around Dabong. 

Riding the train to Dabong was a pleasurable experience for us; visiting Gua Ikan or Fish Cave was another. This limestone cave is situated near the train station, approximately 5 km away. Like other limestone cave in our country Gua Ikan has kast features such as sinkholes, stalactites and stalagmites, has been around for 150 million years, during Cretaceous period, the period after the Jurassic where dinosaurs freely roamed the world where both of the said periods were under Mesozoic Era. We, humans, are relatively new compared with this cave, its cavity created when rivers and rainwater dissolved away limestone, leaving a cavity which grew over time. The limestone of this geo-heritage site is a light grey color. Perhaps our ancestors stayed here hundreds or thousands of years ago. Inside the cave is a small shallow stream where visitors were happy to wade, and some dipped their hands and washed and refreshed their faces with the cold, clear crystal water. You can see round pebbles on its bed. The temperature inside the cave was a little bit colder than outside. Unsurprisingly, many local tourists flocked here because this place is the nearest to the station, making it like a place of a fiesta. Food vendors are more than happy, seizing opportunities to earn extra income. Some visitors captured their moments with nature's beauty during their visits. Apparently, to be here can create a sense of environmentalism, appreciating our natural heritage, and the best time to inculcate it is when young. We didn't explore deep inside the cave, but were just satisfied to be at the entrance of the cave. As for cavers, geologists, as well as geographers, limestone hills and caves are their heavens, and exploring them is part of their interests. While our visit here was a short one, we felt so happy. This geoheritage site is our proud natural heritage and should be preserved for future generations.

We only spent a short while at Gua Ikan. Many visitors here and finding the parking spot was not easy. There are two popular stories or tales regarding the name of this cave. The first one is due to the abundance of fish; small and big in the stream inside the cave and the second one is due to the fish-shaped limestone hill. Since no proper facilities like electricity, stairs and bridges, most visitors ended up at the entrance of the cave, an excursion inside was not possible. Although brief information about the cave is available on the information board, it is better to have someone to brief A to Z about this cave. The local authority can provide this as part of its services. As for students of geography, geology, tourism as well as related social science courses or programmes, they can volunteer to be guides or include in their assignments. This kind of exposure trains them to be more knowledgeable and, at the same time to improve their communication skills in both Malay and English. Their confidence level are alike. This kind of learning, which is known as outside of the four walls of the classroom is deemed effective for our students. Of course, in the era of the Internet of Things, visitors can get information online, but details knowledge about this cave is limited, and can only be known from experts and local folks through stories. We observed that many visitors here took selfies and photographs against the background of the cave and limestone hills, and soon they left this place. Actually, there are two other caves around here - Gua Keris and Gua Pagar. We wished to spend more time here, but we couldn't due to time constraints.

As for hikers and adventurous people, Gunung Stong and its Jelawang Waterfall would be their favourites. While you could see the waterfall when you drive along the road here, it will take a few hours to reach there on foot, and you need to get an experienced guide to help you. As for those who travel with kids and family, it is unlikely to  do so. Visitors to Dabong prefer to pose here, in a special landmark with a scenic view, overlooking Gunung Stong and Jelawang Waterfall, the highest waterfall in Malaysia and our region. We, like many others, also did not want to miss the opportunity to capture our moment here with our families. Photos tell stories of our trips, but for adventurous people, trekking on the path less travelled is what they usually look for. Sweat and perspiration, tired legs on difficult paths with challenges are usually rewarded by indescribable feelings and beautiful views where only a few have the privilege.

Unlike the previous places, the Jelawang Pipe Resort & Extreme Park, the third spot we visited is owned by a private property that has been partly converted into a recreational resort that offers a number of activities and facilities. Our driver paid the entrance ticket and drove uphill of the oil palm plantation and parked his 4×4 under the shade of oil palm trees. Sounds of the kids playing in a pool of a stream echoed when we stepped outside our vehicle. A number of wooden huts were available by the stream where we saw a few families sitting on mats and in front of them scattered foods, drinks and clothes but fully alert and observing their kids swimming in the pool. At that moment, our question and curiosity about why some passengers at Wakaf Baru Station brought with them mats and clothes on the train had been answered. Here, kids enjoyed swimming and splashing in a shallow man-made pool of the stream. All Terrain Vehicles (ATV) are also available for those who want to ride uphill and downhill in the area. Teenagers, both male and female, enjoyed ATV bike ride; some rode alone, and some had pillion riders, they trailed behind their guide. As for those more adventurous and brave enough, flying fox, an adrenaline-pumping activity, suits them. As for those who want to rest or stay overnight, they can hire chalets. A row of round capsules or pods of various striking colours looked very unique and intriguing. We could actually stay overnight here, enjoying to the fullest what nature can offer.

A visit to Dabong would not be complete without eating Che Da Mee Udang Galah. Irresistible prawn noodles served by Che Da, a local woman entrepreneur, have attracted many customers and it is common to see customers fill to the brim at her shop. We were lucky to get a table when we visited it. It is not an exaggeration to say her noodles cooked in thick gravy which blended well with noodles and fresh big freshwater prawns get thumbs up from customers. When you place your order, you need to wait, be patient because it will take some time to be served. The arrival of noodles with big freshwater prawns occupying the bowls with big red heads and sprawling legs, according to your choices, is indeed a joyous moment. We couldn't help to savour the food, our patient was handsomely rewarded. According to Che Da first she operated her food business at Gua Ikan, then moved to the current location, which is located a stone's throw from the Dabong Station during the Covid pandemic. Since she has moved to the present location, her business has attracted many, overwhelmingly, those who travel by train to Dabong. Her shop is the last stop before visitors get on board the train with full tummies.

It was time to go home. On the train, together with us, a few school students, boys and girls from primary school and secondary school, with their uniforms also on the way home after schooling. They left their houses and rode the train at dawn to school, and in the evening they came back, and to do so in the following days. As for us, on our way to Wakaf Baru, the day train ride to Dabong and its touristy places that we visited with our family was quality time we spent together. If you have yet to have a train ride to Dabong, we strongly recommend.