Padang in particular and West Sumatra in general are so special to me compared to other Indonesian cities and provinces. Firstly, this is the first city in Indonesia where I set my feet. Secondly, similarly in terms of entrepreneurship, between Kelantan and Padang. Thirdly, the uniqueness of the geography and geology. Lastly, but not necessarily the least, is about Minang’s food.
The Indonesian railway network, including the one in Padang, is operated by PT Kereta Api Indonesia, a subsidiary of Persero. In Indonesia, Persero refers to a state-owned enterprise (SOE) structured as a limited liability company (PT), where the government holds a minimum of 51% of the shares. This company aims to provide goods or services while also generating profit. The term "Persero" is essentially the abbreviation of "Perusahaan Perseroan," which translates to "Limited Liability Company Persero KAI is a major railway operator in Indonesia and is responsible for passenger and freight transportation.
In Malaysia, our national train is managed by KTMB, which is an abbreviation of Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad. Popularly known as KTM, it is the main rail operator in Peninsular Malaysia. The railway system dates back to the British colonial era, when it was first built to transport tin. Meanwhile, in Padang, the local railway system also dates back to the European colonial period, when the Dutch established a railway line in West Sumatra to transport ore from the mining source to the port in Teluk Bayur. However, passengers were also allowed to ride this train in its glory days from the early 1900s to the 1940s. It cannot be denied that trains brought modernity to West Sumatra and facilitated the mobility of local people, which somewhat limited the use of horse carts before the introduction of the railway system in the area.
In Malaysia, KTM took over the Malayan Railway from the colonial British upon independence in 1957. Although there had been little improvement in the early days of independence, the train networks in Malaysia continued to operate as before. Due to poor road conditions, the airline was beyond the reach of many, as its fare was exorbitantly high. However, the train continued as a popular mode of transportation in the country during the 1970s and 1980s. Many Kelantanese took advantage of the train service to travel to Singapore in search of employment opportunities in its booming economy. I still remember some friends proudly telling others about free train rides they received with the government's warrants.
The situation was different in West Sumatra. When Indonesia gained independence, it severed relations with the Dutch, and the train infrastructure was left without continued service. Unlike Malaysia, Indonesia fought against the Dutch, who sought to recolonise Indonesia after Japan's defeat in the Second World War and its subsequent withdrawal from the country. When ore mining ceased operations, train service was rendered unnecessary. Of course, the public demanded the continuation of train service, but the cost of running it was not profitable. To add insult to injury, Indonesia in its early days lacked the engineering know-how to operate the train systems left by the Dutch. When I plied the mountainous road to Bukit Tinggi, I came across abandoned railway bridges which still stand firm, but managing train services on high gradients is never easy. This requires either a special locomotive, a special track, or both. Indonesia lacked capable engineers, and even if it had, it also needed expensive infrastructure, which the Indonesian government was unable to provide. Up until now, train service in this high elevation has still been abandoned despite rumours or repeated promises of politicians of its revival.
While the journey from Padang to Pariaman is only a short one, approximately 2 hours, considering it is the longest train journey in the entire Sumatra, it was something we could be proud of. Nowhere in Sumatra can you ride the longest train journey like this one. Pariaman Ekspress offers convenient and reliable service to the community with affordable fares, making it accessible to a broader range of individuals.
During my journey, I observed that train passengers came from all walks of life. Old females were preponderant; they travelled in a group as well as with their families, including grandchildren. Since each passenger was given their ticket, everybody got a seat on the journey; however, many seats were vacant as we travelled during a weekday. At one station, a group of elderly ladies boarded. They walked past me and went to another coach. Another group of passengers consisted of an older man who wore a black songkok, struggling to find their proper seats, and was directed to the right seats and coach by the young train attendant. As a train attendant, he not only assisted passengers in finding the right seats but also ensured their safety and comfort throughout the train journey. This individual and other train attendant perform a variety of duties, including assisting with boarding and disembarking, as well as monitoring the train environment, including its cleanliness.
Unlike my local train experience in Thailand, the window on this train cannot be opened; only a small air ventilation window is available to let fresh air enter the cabin. Since it was still in the morning, I found it unnecessary to do so. While on the train in Thailand, I managed to interact and make friends. On this ride, I was unable to do so, as no other passengers sat behind or in front of me, except the young lecturer from Unand, who accompanied me on the whole journey. On the train, I knew more about him. He has been married for just a few years, and his wife hails from Pariaman. He told me that Pariaman is famous for its fresh seafood. He added that the city is not as busy as Padang, and he prefers to return to Pariaman on weekends to escape the hustle and bustle of the capital of West Sumatra. He and his wife go back to her in-laws' house once a week, unless they have a task in Padang during the weekends. "This week I got to handle the summer camp programme, so I'll stay in Padang this weekend, tomorrow students will have site visits", he informed me.
Realising the need for charging, a socket is available at each seat for passengers to charge their hand phones, including my bespectacled acquaintance.
I sat on the window seat. The view from a train window was so captivating; I saw glimpses of diverse landscapes, skyscapes, cityscapes, and rural scenes as the train travelled along its route. At one stretch of the journey, I watched villages along the train's track, vast rice fields, rolling countryside, industrial areas, and urban sprawls.
I asked my acquaintance, the young lecturer, why there was a small pond in front of the houses; he told me that it could be used to rear fish or to collect rainwater to prevent or minimise floods. In another stretch of the railway line, I pointed to a big industrial building and asked him, "That is Semen Padang? He said, "No, probably a vegetable oil processing plant company.
A few station names come after tropical fruits: Pauh Lima, Pauh Kemar, and Duku. Similar to the Kelantanese, the Minang people of Minangnese call the mango Pauh, unlike people from other parts of Malaysia, who call it Mempelam. Another fruit is Duku. It is a tropical fruit native to Southeast Asia. Both Duku and Pauh are favourite fruits amongst Malays; both are orchard fruits usually planted around houses.
In our journey, I saw the kaleidoscope of views outside a train window, the constantly changing scenery that passed by, creating a dynamic and visually rich experience. This rapid succession of images showcases a diverse range of landscapes, including buildings, houses, villages, and vast rice fields. Unlike in Malaysia, you can see different stages of rice fields; at one stretch of the journey, the rice fields are stubbly brown, just harvested, while in another stretch, the foot-high shoots are light green fields. Seeing them on the moving train is much like the shifting patterns in a kaleidoscope. I had a good time watching.
I have travelled on trains in many countries, including the UK, Australia, Thailand, Switzerland, Italy, Korea, Japan, and the Netherlands, to name a few. My eyes always looked at the changing views outside the windows. Hardly, I slept as I didn't want to miss the views of the landscapes and skyscapes.
In Europe, you would usually see wheat fields, green fields with fat cattle grazing and beautiful cottages punctuated by bridges crossing rivers. A few train rides that I always remember: In Italy, on my way from Verona to Bolzano Bozen, the border city with Germany, I saw beautiful white marble hills. On the other hand, in Australia, the journey from Central Station to Newcastle takes you past a few stretches of railway that run parallel to the Pacific Ocean, where you can see oyster farms as well as luxury yachts berthed at the harbour before the train arrives at Gosford. In England, on a late winter morning, I took the train from St. Pancras station to Dover to see the magical white chalk cliff.
As a person who studied geography, you can call me a geographer. The very word of geography comes from the two Greek words: geo (earth) and graphos (description). Our studies of geography involved investigating the Earth's surface, the distribution of phenomena across space, and the complex relationships between humans and their environments. Generally, the said discipline can be further categorised as human geography and physical geography. As a science student with a background, I am inclined to the latter. Among other subjects I took were soil morphology, fluvial processes, hydrology, climatology, coastal geomorphology, and water resources management. While geology and geography are closely related, geography tends to investigate the earth's surface materials and the processes of water or other agents on landscapes over time. Rocks and minerals, both on the surface and buried deep in the earth, are of interest to geologists. Since I also took a few geological courses, such as palaeontology, rock and minerals, and groundwater, during the first and second years of my study, I have a basic understanding of geology and geological processes. Again, given the background above, I can see different facets of landscapes, how they are created, and have a better appreciation for the places I have visited. In this respect, my travel will always be fascinating and enjoyable.
If you want to experience a train ride in West Sumatra, you have three options: Pariaman Express, Minangkabau Express and Lubuk Anai. The one that I rode was the first one. The Pariaman Ekspres train is also known as the Sibinuang Train. Unlike the two other lines, this line runs parallel with the Indian Ocean, from Pauh Lima to Naras, the distance between them is 75 km. Altogether 12 stations between these two ends. Station Padang and Station Lubuk Along are the biggest stations. Although it runs along the coastline, you can't see the ocean until you arrive at the Pariaman station, which is situated by the sea.
Your second option is Minangkabau Ekspress.
It is an airport rail link service connecting the provincial capital, Padang, and the airport in Pariaman. This line was built to reduce travel time between these two stations, as roads are frequently congested. This line was first operated in the middle of 2018. Unlike Pariaman Ekspress, the fare ticket for this train's ride is more expensive, as it is a luxury train, at Rp 10,000. If you arrive at the Minangkabau International Airport, you can take the train to the centre of Padang and then use an e-hailing service to reach the hotel you booked. This can reduce travelling costs as you can explore the city on your own. Angkut is available from one place to another around the city. If you want to go to Bukit Tinggi, you can hire a day or two trip van for the purpose. Overall, hiring a van is not so expensive in Padang.
The third train ride option is the Lembah Anai line. This train line connects Kayu Tanam, Sicincin, Lubuk Along, Pasar Usang and Duku. The ride from Kayu Tanam to Duku only takes 50 minutes. Kayu Tanam is the last upland station, and those who want to go to Bukit Tinggi can take a bus there. Tickets for the ride can be bought online and at the station counter. The price for this trip is also the same as that of Minangkabau Ekspress, Rp5,000.
Historically, West Sumatra had an extensive and well-developed railway network, extending from its coastal area of Padang to the hinterlands during the Dutch colonial era. However, after the country gained independence in 1945, it was abandoned and neglected.
When I arrived exactly according to the schedule, 11.30 am, most of the passengers got off the train. It was the end of my journey. Just outside the station, a long queue of motorists, asking us for pay rides, caused the traffic to come to a standstill. Here, for the first time in my life, I came across so many motorcycle taxis looking for passengers who had got off the train a moment ago. The Pariman market is just a stone's throw from the station. It was a bustling market with a throng of people: fishmongers, sitting behind large, round stainless steel plates filled with various fish, waiting for customers. Vegetable sellers nearby talked with customers. Judging from what I briefly saw, this market is the magnet of this small town, as many activities centre around it.
We performed the Friday prayer at Masjid Raya Air Pampan, situated on Jalan Sudirman in the centre of Pariaman. This mosque, built in 1910, is one of the oldest mosques in Pariaman. An old khatib delivered the sermon and also led the prayer. It was a remembrance of God Almighty and to fulfil our religious activities, followed by congregational prayer, during which the Imam read from particular ayat of the Quran. During our busy lives, we sometimes forget to stop and reflect on ourselves, our existence, and our responsibilities, not just those related to our jobs and families, as we are often preoccupied. After the prayer, we went to the nearby tailor shop to amend the second-hand jeans trousers that I bought the previous week, not too far from Universitas Andalas in Padang. But no one was there. We waited for the tailor for some time, as we were told by a woman who operated a drink kiosk just next to his shop, that the owner had a noon break as well as to attend Friday prayer. I waited inside the open shop, which had no owner. A few white threads are neatly arranged on the overhanging rack on the shop's wall. A pair of clothes, new and old, was hanging on the line. Across the street, customers patiently queued to buy packs of rice, while a few customers at the shop enjoyed a delicious late lunch. Waiting about 20 minutes, the middle-aged and bespectacled tailor who wore a striped contrast colour t-shirt and a spotless clean white cap arrived on a motorcycle, and his wife rode as a pillion rider. Greeting him, I said 'salam' and told him to alter my blue jeans, which I had brought with me from Padang. He nodded and took the pants. No job seemed difficult for him, a seasoned tailor.
Skilfully, he altered it, cutting the pants accordingly based on the right length that he had previously measured with the measuring tape, from the waist to my ankle. Afterwards, he used the remaining cloth to cover the ripped part with zig-zag stitching. Watching him at work was an interesting thing to observe. With his extensive experience, he is well-versed in both measurements and stitching. While his hand and his right foot were busy with my pants, he asked a few questions about myself, as he automatically knew I was from Malaysia from the way I talked. More often than not, asking where you came from or posing a question like 'Are you from Malaysia?' as a confirmation is one way to break the conversational ice. I paid 40,000 Rupiah for the job and left him with a thankful remark. Now it was the right time to head to the famous food shop at the nearby beach for a late lunch. Once my friend returned from his visit to his mother-in-law's shop, we re-boarded the SUV and trundled slowly to our destination. I felt a bit hungry and was looking forward to the sumptuous lunch of grilled fish and other dishes, as Pariaman is famous for fresh seafood.
Like Kelantan and other sandy coastal areas in Malaysia, in Pariaman, we found casuarina trees flourishing on its sandy beaches. This species of tree is actually native to sandy areas in Southeast Asian countries. Unlike other trees, this tree can survive in sandy areas which lack nutrients, and it is also tolerant of acidic soil. Due to their strong root systems, they can reduce and prevent soil erosion and stabilise dunes. Furthermore, this tree acts as a powerful carbon sink, absorbing significant amounts of CO2, making it a vital ally in the fight against climate change. Due to its benefits, more and more of this tree species are being reintroduced to the sandy coastal area.
While the sky was overcast and it was drizzling, the swaying casuarina trees, swayed by the wind of the Indian Ocean, seemed to welcome us to the beach. A row of casuarina trees provided a shady place for visitors to enjoy the sea view and seafood along the shore here. RM Pasia Taluak is one of the favourite food outlets in Pariaman. It is renowned for its fresh seafood, and it comes as no surprise that many customers come here to taste its delicious meals. If Nasi Kapau is famous in the hinterland of Bukit Tinggi, this food outlet offers sumptuous meals with a view of the ocean.
This place is second to none in offering an array of dishes, particularly the grilled sea fish, noted for its sweet and savoury spices, perfectly balancing flavour and freshness. The fish head curry is another highlight, rich in spices that tantalise the palate, and is complemented by a variety of side dishes, including fried fish and heart curry. The atmosphere is enhanced by dining huts set either on chairs with dishes laid out on a table or cross-legged against full wooden planks, facing a table full of dishes within a thatched hut against a beautiful beach backdrop, providing an inviting space to enjoy meals. As with Nasi Minang you only pay what you touch.
We chose the small hut with a table and six chairs and asked a waiter to roll up the bamboo blinds on the left and right, allowing us to see the beach, the ocean, and our surroundings. After a while, all sorts of dishes lay on the top of the table. I found the service to be speedy, as a lady waitress brought several dishes on a big round platter all at once.
Apart from fresh grilled fish, fish curry, and prawn skewers, sambal Ijo (or Sambal Hijau), a very famous green chilli sambal from the Minangkabau people, does not need an introduction. I have fallen in love with it since my first visit, which was more than a decade ago. Its name comes from the Minang word "lado" for chilli. This vibrant, zesty condiment is made from young green chillies and is commonly served with rice and a variety of dishes, adding a distinct, fresh, and fiery kick.
I enjoyed the fresh grilled fish so much when I ate it with rice wrapped in a banana leaf; I felt a sense of déjà vu, hard to explain in words. Soaking with a gentle sea breeze tinged with salt, we hardly realised we were now full. As for appetisers and side dishes, Sala Lauat, much like fish balls due to its round shape, was incredibly delicious. We ate the whole plate of it and asked the female waiter for an extra plate as one was not enough.
Indeed, I really appreciate the three young lecturers of Unand who brought me here; their hospitality deeply moved me. One of them is preparing for her wedding, which is scheduled for next year. Another two are already married and are looking forward to pursuing their PhDs; I wish all of them the best in their lives and future endeavours. This short, yet meaningful visit, introduced me to Pariaman, a peaceful and underrated place, with laid-back and delightfully fresh seafood by the casuarina-fringed shore. It's suitable for those who want to enjoy holidays where they can feel relaxed and refreshed, away from mundane and monotonous activities that occupy their minds. After all, travelling is all about seeing and experiencing things differently, which you can't get from the place you usually dwell.
We returned to Padang by road after having a meal. I thought of finding someone at Pariaman market to find the right metal structures to hold the gemstones - a green and black colour gemstone. Dr. Yusri presented both stones from Sungai Dareh. When my acquaintance told me I could try at Pasar Raya Padang, instead of going back to Santika Hotel, we went ahead to Pasar Raya as soon as we arrived in the city. I was lucky; she was actually fond of gemstones, as she shared the interest with her father and frequented the place. When we arrived, we saw a few of the ring makers at work, and one of them was sleeping, seemingly with nothing in hand. She asked me to stay in the car as she was afraid the seller would increase the price when he found I was not an Indonesian.
Taking my ring as an example, she and her friends left. Getting the right size shank for my ring finger is actually not easy, as I am relatively smaller than others. Another thing was to find the right size of a shoulder that gripped the ring stones. Lastly, she found a guy who had the right size for my finger and proceeded when I gave my consent regarding the price for both rings. On the way to the hotel, she told us that the ring seller had been waiting for customers for the whole day, but he had none, and I was his first customer. Hearing that, I was deeply moved. Life was not easy for him. With the money he earned, he could put food on his table. I realised everything happens for a reason!. As for gemstone enthusiasts, Sungai Dareh is famous as the source of a popular green agate or gemstone, often called the "Sumatra Jade" due to its captivating colour and natural moss patterns. This stone is highly sought after by gem collectors. It is 184 km to the east of the city of Padang—about 5 hours by car.
We had lunch at Aroma Restaurant on the last day in Padang. I was impressed by the layout and interior design of the restaurant, which was beautifully orchestrated. Inside was a garden with ornamental plants, such as big-leaf caladium, a date tree, and ferns. Epiphytes which crawl on the surface of the wall and overhanging plants perfectly added lush cascading greenery, creating a relaxing environment for customers. We ordered Ayam Gaprek, Ayam Lado Hijau, and Satay Padang, which we shared among ourselves. I loved the special coconut ice cream.
It was time for me to leave. Minangkabau International Airport, with its buffalo horn building, seemed to ask me to stay a little bit longer. AirAsia's flight bound for Kuala Lumpur also experienced the same delay when it was first scheduled to depart at 6:30 pm and finally left the airport at 9 pm. The airline compensated passengers with bread from the bakery shop, and I had a hot cappuccino while waiting for my departure home.
